
- Champagne Philipponnat, Clos Des Goisses 2002
The Philipponnat family has been based in the Champagne region since the 17th century and began producing Champagne in the middle of the 19th century. Today the 17-hectare estate is based at Mareuil-sur-Ay and is one of the principal owners of grand and premier cru vineyards, comprising mainly Pinot Noir grapes. The estate supplements its grape requirements by developing relationships with leading local growers from Cotes de Blancs and the Marne Valley. In many cases these partnerships date back several generations. Harvesting is carried out entirely by hand and the vinification process is traditional leading to full-bodied and rounded, distinctive champagnes. The 5.5 hectare Clos des Goisses vineyard is located on the edge of the village and was purchased by the estate in 1935 and is made of hillsides facing southward - unparalleled in Champagne. The grape blend is two-thirds Pinot Noir to one-third Chardonnay, two-thirds of which is aged in old oak barrels.
A bright pale gold in the glass. A yeasty nose suggesting brioche and flaky pastry. On the palate very dry (the dosage is low) with a delicate richness and tight mineral structure. There are spicy oak hints and a pronounced nuttiness in the finish. A superb wine - elegant and poised. Drink with roasted lobster in a caraway-scented jus, oysters served on a bed of watercress with lemon butter or roast wild duck served with a quince puree.

