The relatively youthful (30 years old) Sebastien Riffault is one of the most controversial, yet important, wine makers in Sancerre. Starting out on his own in 202, he farms just 2 hectares of his own and the wines are vinified at his father, Etienne's, cave based at Sury-en-Vaux, overlooking the town of Sancerre itself. He farms the vineyards strictly according to biodynamic principles and the soil is composed mainly of flint and limestone, thereby guaranteeing fresh, mineral whites and concentrated reds. Married to a Lithuanian, Juraté, all the vineyards have been given Lithuanian titles. This particular white is from the tiny, 0.7 hectare 'Skeveldra' ('stone') vineyard - a plot of 45 year-old Sauvignon vines that grow almost exclusively on flint soil. Like it's sister wine, 'Akmeniné', 'Skeveldra' is from hand-picked grapes, spends several months in barrel and is neither filtered not fined. Unlike 'Akmeniné', however, this zesty white does not undergo malolactic fermentation resulting in a lighter, smokier wine with a pronounced acidity. As with all Sebastien's wines, this will benefit from decanting.

A pale amber in the glass. Slightly oxidised nose with scents of quince, pear and beeswax. On the palate, lively yet concentrated with flavours of vanilla and apricot, The acidity is pronounced and the texture mineral, leading to a lingering finish. Great with roasted asparagus with rillettes and goat's cheese topping, matelote (a local eel stew with bacoon and mushrooms) or a half-dozen freshly shucked oysters.