Bodegas Barranco Oscuro is run by Manuel Valenzuela and is situated in Cadiar in the Sierra de la Contraviesa in the Granada region of southern Spain, 60 miles from the regional capital of Almeria. The vineyards, at 1,400 metre (4.600 feet), are among the highest in Continental Europe and are tended strictly along organic lines. Manuel specialises in cultivating unusual and ancient grape varieties, many of which have almost died out. This includes the rare Vigiriega grape which exists only in Granada and the Canary Islands and, along with equal measures of Vermentino and Viognier, goes to make up this intriguing white wine. Aged in oak barrels for 9 months, this is a dry and zesty white with slightly flor-like qualities. Great with rich seafood dishes.

A straw-gold in colour. Scents of green apples and apricots with pronounced oxidative notes. On the palate, dry and fresh, yet weighty, with tart green-fruit flavours which retain the flor-like characteristics of the Vigiriega grape. The acidity is excellent and the finish lengthy. Would be a big hit with Manzanilla lovers. Try with a squid salad with potatoes, tomatoes and aioli, roast lobster on a bed of artichokes or an asparagus and mushroom risotto.